Onebag Pack List for Costa Rica

Seth's packed onebag on the balcony of his hotel in Costa Rica.

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It’s been a while since my last trip abroad, where I spent over a month in a wintry Scotland and about as much time hunkered down in London during the big lockdown. I packed more than usual for that trip due to the weather…and I wanted to have something other than obvious outdoor gear to wear for once. I’m kind of cringing as I admit this but…folks…I even checked a bag. I know, I know. It’s time to get back to basics.

I went more basic than I’ve ever gone before with my smallest pack size yet to a new country. The rainy season was in full force in the Monteverde region of Costa Rica, an area famous for its mountainous cloud forests. Despite the rain, it’s absolutely gorgeous and was not conducive to me wanting to open my laptop anyway. Instead, I spent my time hiking through rainforests, drinking glorious cups of coffee straight from the source, and trying my absolute damnedest to spot a sloth. That last one was much harder than you’d expect.

“I was only there for about two weeks and flew on a budget airline, so I wanted to pack as lightly as possible.”

I was only there for about two weeks and flew on a budget airline, so I wanted to pack as lightly as possible. If you’re here, you probably already know how much easier life is when you skip baggage claim and all of that rechecking nonsense. If not, consider this rundown of what I managed to fit into a tiny little daypack for a two-week vacation your introduction to the magic of onebag travel. Let’s start with the bag.

The onebag: Patagonia Refugio 26L

My previous smallest onebag, the Fjallraven Kanken Maxi, could expand to 27L. As much as I loved that bag (its iconic design is cool as hell), it had some serious shortcomings when it came to long excursions like hiking. I wanted something more well-rounded for this trip. The Patagonia Refugio 26L is just big enough for about 2 weeks of travel. The straps and ventilation are more substantial for hiking, not to mention it has not one but two water bottle holders. These features matter when your bag is going to spend more time on your back than at the hotel.

What did I bring to Monteverde?

The local climate and your goals are the two biggest determining factors for your pack list. I’m used to bigger packs simply because I’m usually in colder climates (Daqing was a balmy -13°F (-25°C) in the depths of winter). Monteverde was more merciful with daytime temps in the 70s (low 20s Celsius) and nighttime lows in the mid to high 50s (mid-10s Celsius). These temps are right in my Goldilocks zone. BUT. The big tapir in the room is that Monteverde is covered in rainforest, and it rains a lot.

That brings me to my goal: hike whatever can be hiked. I would be outdoors in that rain often. I needed clothing adaptable to the changeable weather, and also preferably something that looked nice for dining out in the evenings. As ever, cotton is never the answer in these situations. I packed mostly synthetic technical clothing and merino wool - items that would dry quickly and also keep me somewhat warm even when wet. These fabrics also cope with odor very well, so it’s possible to fit a well-rounded wardrobe in the tiny Refugio.

Clothing is a top priority when packing light, but that’s not all that makes a solid onebag packing list! Let’s root around and see what else I brought with me on my two-week stay in Monteverde, Costa Rica. Full disclosure: there are affiliate links in each gear description. If you happen to spot something you need, using these links gives me a small kickback at no extra cost to you. WARNING: This is a fairly exhaustive list and might bore you to tears if you’re not a hopeless gearhead. Pull this ripcord to leave immediately and read about Costa Rica’s favorite beer instead.

Rainjacket and layers

Patagonia Capilene Cool Daily Hoody - This thin, wispy piece of fabric is hands-down the best new gear purchase I added to my onebag for Costa Rica. When the intense equatorial sun broke through the clouds for long stretches, I donned this sun hoody like a suit of armor against the harmful UV rays. It is very thin and does an excellent job at wicking away sweat and keeping you cool. Don’t be fooled by the long sleeves!

SmartWool Merino 250 Base Layer Hoody - Unlike the sun hoody, this one was actually for warmth. Monteverde got a little windy and chilly some nights. This extra layer was perfect over one of my merino T-shirts. It also looks fairly stylish and perfectly matches the Outlier pants.

Marmot Precip Rainjacket - The Precip is an okay rainjacket that will keep you dry. I am not a fan of the main zipper, which is a pain in the ass to use. I’ve been limping along with it for a while because it definitely does the job, but it’s not as good as I know other Marmot products to be. It kept the rain off me in the rainforest, but I will replace it with something I’m not spending 5 minutes zipping up in a downpour.

“Cotton is rotten. Stick to merino wool and synthetic fabrics if you need to pack light.”

Pants and shorts for town and the trail

Fjallraven Karl Trousers - I’ve been dragging my Karl trousers through the dirt since 2017. These got all kinds of wet and muddy on the trails of Monteverde. Thanks to the G1000 fabric, they dried quickly and shed a lot of dirt on their own. Ample pockets keep everything you need securely at hand.

Outlier Slim Dungarees - No one can touch Outlier’s level of quality, functionality, and style of clothing purpose-made for digital nomads. The Slim Dungarees are those perfect all-around trousers that look great in almost any situation. They are not cheap, but they are durable, and the dirt and grime seemingly roll right off. These are part of my “civilian” wardrobe for activities that don’t involve sweat and dirt.

Outlier New Way Shorts - Anything Outlier comes with a big price tag, but I know what I’m getting in return. Like the Slim Dungarees, their shorts are made with the best materials and craftsmanship. They look great in almost any situation and perform just as well. I wore these around town on the warmer days and also took an impromptu dip in a river - they were nearly dry by the end of the hike.

Breathable tops for high humidty

This sun hoodie got a lot of use in Monteverde. — This sun hoody got a lot of use in Monteverde.

Patagonia Capilene Cool Daily T-shirt - The same recycled polyester used in the sun hoody, but in T-shirt form, that also keeps you cool and dry in hot, humid environments.

SmartWool Merino Sport 150 T-shirt (2) - Merino wool is another wonder fabric for traveling and outdoor adventures. These plain T-shirts look smarter than my other synthetic clothing, still wick away moisture, eliminate odors with natural antimicrobial properties, and keep you warm even when wet.

Craghoppers Kiwi Shirt - I wanted a nicer long-sleeve button-down that was functional outdoors but also looked nice enough to wear out. I never have luck with these shirts. The Kiwi, like most shirts in this genre, fit like a curtain on my lanky frame. It was comfortable enough, but I couldn’t get over how ill-fitting it was. I barely wore it on my trip.

Marmot Crossover Shirt - The Crossover is a long-sleeve tee made from a comfy 80/20 blend of polyester and cotton. You get the moisture-wicking benefits of a synthetic shirt that looks and feels more natural. I wore this on non-hiking outdoor excursions like touring a coffee farm. Its UPF 30 rating keeps the sun off and the fabric is quite breezy for a long-sleeved shirt. I’m considering getting a few more of these for travel, hiking, and just wearing around!

Shoes and accessories

Darn Tough Hiker Micro Crew Socks (2) - If you plan on doing a lot of walking, don’t mess this part up! For me, there is only one pair of socks for the trail. I’ve only been wearing these socks from Darn Tough for almost a decade now. Well, not the same pairs, but I’ve had to replace fewer than you might think. I stepped in plenty of mud in Monteverde but the merino wool did its job and kept my damp feet comfortable.

Darn Tough 1/4 Hiker Socks (2) - The same material and construction as Darn Tough’s micro crew socks, just shorter. I wore these with shorts on warmer days, usually walking around town (I always wear trousers and long socks in the rainforest regardless of temperature). They had great cushioning for my 3-mile round trip into town and kept my feet cool and dry even when it was hot.

Costa Rica wardrobe drying after treating it with permethrin.

Smartwool Merino 150 Boxer Briefs (2) - If you haven’t noticed, I’m a bit of a merino fanboy. From hoodies to tees to socks and, yes, underwear, it is one of the most versatile materials out there. These Smartwool boxer briefs are super comfy but they all started disintegrating in under a year. This trip was their swan song.

Patagonia Essential Boxer Briefs (2) - My new go-to briefs for travel and outdoor adventures are even more comfortable than Smartwool’s and seem to be holding up a lot better. These will be cycled in as the tattered merino briefs are phased out.

Hoka One One Challenger ATR 6 Shoes - Whatever you do, don’t go anywhere without the right shoes. My feet are happiest in a pair of Hoka trail runners. These Challengers got me through dirt, mud, downpours, and streams without any scrapes or bruises to show for it. Despite being trail shoes, they are perfectly comfortable for a lot of pavement miles in town. If you have an issue with pronation like me, I highly, highly recommend Hoka. I think their very loud and creative color options and bulky, maximalist cushion make them weirdly cool, but I’ll admit it’s not for everyone.

Teva Universal Sandals - My Hokas definitely got the most use in Monteverde, but it’s nice to let your feet breathe sometimes. Teva has never failed me, so I popped these into one of the water bottle holders on the Refugio. I will say that I probably could have gone without the sandals. The Hokas were comfortable and quick-drying enough that I wore them almost the whole time and went barefoot at home base.

“Whatever you do, don’t go anywhere without the right shoes.”

Suunto 9 GPS Watch - The current heavyweight in my retinue of outdoor gear comes in a tiny package. I mostly use the Suunto 9 for tracking distance, elapsed time, and elevation, but it is always great to have a backup map of the area I’m hiking no matter how well-marked the trails are.

RayBan New Wayfarer Sunglasses - Worth the price point? Absolutely fucking not. However, I can’t deny a classic when I see one. When these are inevitably lost or broken, I’ll be replacing them with a pair of Warby Parker prescription sunglasses.

Fjallraven Canvas Belt - Keeping your pants up is pretty crucial to hiking. This belt from Fjallraven has a simple adjustable metal buckle design that did the job. I can safely report there were no wardrobe malfunctions in Costa Rica.

Fjallraven Sport Trucker Hat - I’ve increasingly become more of a hat person since the start of the pandemic. It’s a bit of a chicken-egg situation. Did I start wearing it because of the time I butchered my hair trying to buzz it myself? Was I just being lazier in general about my appearance like everyone else? Whatever the case, it stuck, and I got a new one for my trip.

Fjallraven Abisko Summer Hat - Let’s close out the clothing with the most useless piece of gear I brought along. Considering I had the trucker hat and the sun hoodie, this sun hat was overkill. I’m not sure what I was expecting. It’s often cloudy in Monteverde, and even on sunny days, you will probably be under the rainforest canopy.

Hiking gear for the trails

Outdoor Research PackOut Stuff Sack - You know your priorities are in order when you have a bag specifically for trail munchies. I brought some known favorites and added local treats like cassava chips and some fantastic little rosquillas de queso cookies.

Petzl Tikka Headlamp - Another piece of gear I could have gone without, I originally brought my headlamp for the guided nighttime nature walk. Shoutout to Mauricio of Three Brothers Tours for showing us some incredible wildlife we wouldn’t have had a chance in hell seeing without him. Flashlights were provided.

Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight First Aid Kit - Better to have and not need than to not have and need. I carry the .5 Ultralight kit on almost every trip outdoors and abroad. It has everything you need for moderately bad cuts, scrapes, insect bites, and blisters.

REI Duck’s Back Pack Cover - A good pack cover is an absolute necessity in rainy Monteverde. Even when there is no rain, water is constantly dripping down from the canopy of the rainforest. If you want to save some money, using a garbage bag to line the inside of your pack can work just as well. Just don’t keep gadgets in your outside pockets.

“Even when there is no rain, water is constantly dripping down from the canopy of the rainforest.”

Ben’s Tick & Insect Repellant - Surprisingly, I never used my Ben’s once. It seemed that Monteverde was at an elevation/temperature just beyond what mosquitoes prefer. You will need repellant if you are lower and closer to the coast.

Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 70 Sunscreen - Monteverde is fairly cloudy in the summer but that powerful equatorial sun still pierces through at times. I’ve used Neutrogena for years. It keeps my #ffffff skin (graphic design joke heh) from burning and isn’t as greasy as other options.

Organization, gadgets, and other stuff

Peak Design Small Packing Cube - None of this works without this piece of gear. To take advantage of all 26L of the Refugio, I compressed most of my clothes into Peak Design’s small packing cube. Multiple compartments allow you to separate dirty and clean clothes. The difference in the amount of space my clothes take up with and without this cube makes me reconsider what little I know about physics.

Thule Subterra PowerShuttle Tech Pouch - Who wants to be rummaging around for that specific cable in the depths of a fully packed bag? Thule’s reasonably priced yet durable tech pouch keeps everything well organized and protected from the elements and my own clumsiness.

Fjallraven Gear Pocket - This little zippered pouch was perfect for my passport, vaccination info, bookings, and other documents. It’s made of the same G1000 materials used in Fjallraven’s clothing, so there is some resistance to the elements if you’re caught out in a downpour.

Me and the Refugio meeting Don Juan of the Don Juan Coffee Farm.

Tom Bihn Spiff Kit - Traveling with less doesn’t mean you have to live like a crusty backpacker. This toiletry bag from Tom Bihn held everything I needed to stay fresh during my two-week trip to Monteverde.

Snow Peak Titanium Spork - I’ve been rocking a Snow Peak spork in my travel bag since 2011. I may not always use it, but it weighs almost nothing, it’s indestructible, and I’m grateful to have it when I need it.

Otterbox Power Pack 10,000 Mah - Ever been outdoors in the middle of nowhere with a dead phone and no means to charge it? It’s not fun, or safe, really. Every traveler should carry a power bank. This one from Otterbox has a fairly rugged and minimalist aesthetic. Your mileage may vary, but I can get about three full charges for my iPhone 11 Pro out of this power bank.

Shure SE315-K Sound Isolating Earphones - You can’t always control what’s happening around you amidst the varying degrees of chaos that come with travel. You do have options, like putting in some noise-canceling earbuds, closing your eyes, and pretending like the kid behind you isn’t playing phone games at full volume. Hey, it’s what their parents are doing!

Moleskine Journal - It’s hard enough to live in the moment these days without the added pressure to photograph anything remotely interesting and trip over roots while uploading it to Instagram from the trail. I try not to do that, and fill in the gaps of what I didn’t get on camera with my memories. I’ve had a Moleskine with me for over a decade now.

Seneca’s On the Shortness of Life - I never learn that I’m not going to read on a trip. However, I do highly recommend Seneca’s work to anyone striving to live a more intentional life. It fit the theme of introspection I had planned for this Costa Rica trip.

So, how did it go?

For the amount of time I was there and the activities I was doing, this turned out to be an excellent setup. The Refugio was extremely comfortable and deserves its own review, and I definitely foresee me using it again as one of my smaller onebags for warmer destinations. There was not much wiggle room fully packed, but once I unloaded everything except the daily necessities at the hotel, it was a great travel companion in town and on the trail. I wasn’t sure how I’d feel about the front pocket, but it ended up being the perfect spot to store my constantly damp rain jacket.

The thing that I tried to prepare for but still didn’t quite wrap my head around until I was there was just how humid it was. Things that get wet stay wet at 98% humidity - it doesn’t matter what material it is. Sink laundry just isn’t feasible, so forget about that and ask the hotel to do it. I think I brought just the right amount of clothes. Not counting my failed sink attempt, I did a full load of laundry once. Although they take a while to dry in those conditions, merino and polyester were still the clear winners in cutting down odor and wicking away sweat.

There were a few things I did not end up using. One thing I never end up learning is that I just am not going to read that book I brought. I invariably end up writing in my free time instead. Surprisingly, I never had to open my bug spray. Mosquitoes were not really that present at that elevation and temperature. I did not use my super cool Fjallraven sun hat - the trucker hat and sun hoodie were just fine. I don’t know what I was thinking about buying that hat… I will probably make use of it trekking in Nepal next year where the terrain is a lot more exposed.

It felt good to be light again.

It’s been so long since I started the original Spartan Wanderer pretty much on a whim after my first Appalachian Trail section during college and my first time living out of a backpack. A lot’s changed since then. I’m very much still a minimalist, but I do like having a home base with nice things in it. But the pandemic left me feeling uncomfortably stuck. After investing care, time, and money into my apartment in China only to have to abruptly leave it behind in 2020, then doing the same at home for a couple of years, it was nice to just have everything on my back again.

If you’d like to view a packing list for my Monteverde trip in a more digestible one-page PDF, you can download it here. I’ve also made a blank onebag packing list template that you can use on your own journeys! Just follow the tooltips by hovering your mouse over the blank areas and start planning your next trip! ◉

Written by Seth Barham